I was told my last blog
didn’t make much sense and I should clarify what is happening with
the dig—other than our filling the sink around the culvert and
capping it. But what is happening is politics and it is really hard
for me to explain that stuff. I don’t even understand the
politicizing of the cave. The cave is a natural feature of the
planet. It has its lessons to teach us. It is, so to speak, a
totally unique library. We have a management plan designed not only
to just go into the library, but to read it without altering it. And
according to the Federal Cave Protection Act of 1988, you are not even allowed
to check a book out. It must be read in the cave. And not only to
just read it, but to share with the world the opening of those books.
A little history. My
first cave experience was working at the Oregon Caves -- NPS -- on what we
called the rubble crew. This was around 1989. The early days of
discovery and tourism at the Oregon Caves had left a lot of blasted
rock and cave sediments that were thrown aside and or stuffed
into holes. These were being removed to expose the natural features
along the trail. It was like the whole bottom half of the cave was
buried under the dirt and rock that had been blasted and was being moved to make a
trail that could be walked through and not have to be crawled
through.
Now as a digger and a treasure hunter of sorts -- I’ve
dug a lot of agate in my life, even looked for gold -- I was fascinated
by what was found in the dirt we were digging. There were of course
human artifacts: coins, marbles, hairpins, flashbulbs, and buttons.
Stuff that falls out of people’s pockets when they take their hands
out of them. These artifacts were accidentally found and a lot of
them I believe ended up in some kind of museum or storage that the
park maintains. Not for the public. Also, and these were more
interesting to me, we found a lot of bones. I remember at first when
I noticed them, my first day of digging, I thought, “Are these left
over from the lunches of the workers?” I imagined cavemen gnawing
on slabs of bear meat. As the digging continued though, it was
obvious that these bones, some of them in deep deposits of washed
sand, were naturally deposited in the cave. Eventually some of them
were identified as belonging to a 10,000 year old environment and
are still available for study, but most of the found bones were thrown away. A
few random finds including a wolf tooth, a Native American tooth, and
many small mammal bones were picked out as they were spotted. These
were identified by Dr. Rob Orr, paleontologist.
I love to dig and am
always interested in what I find in the ground, even just a rock. I
grew up ½ mile from the Willamette River, and you could dig for
weeks and not see anything but dirt and loam, not even any sand till
you got down about 5-7 feet. Josephine County is fun to dig in. The
Oregon Caves were the most interesting digging I’ve done. When the
Cave Next Door (CND) was first entered, a bone and a snail shell were found in the
first room. They might have come directly down from the surface,
from an opening above. I think they were washed through the cave
because a snail shell was also found on a sandbank beside the creek ½
way through the canyon passage. I have often hoped that the CND
might at some place duplicate the fossil record lost and
scattered, even just thrown away, from the Oregon Caves. A record of
fauna in Josephine County from 10,000 years ago. ( In speaking of
fossils, I want to mention here that there are some carboniferous
rocks between Waldo and O’Brien in this county that I have seen
some beautiful fossils from that different people have randomly
gathered. There is a fossil resource in Oregon that has yet to be explored
and studied.)
Another thing I learned on
my first day of work in a cave (along with the abundance of
information I could learn) was how difficult and impossible it is to go into a cave,
much less build a trail through it, without some kind of significant
impact. These issues have been dealt with quite successfully in many
private and state tour caves, to preserve and maintain them for the
maximum experience of future visitors. In my years of cleaning and
building trail at the Oregon Caves, I learned abut Kartchner Caverns
in Arizona and the efforts the discoverers made to protect the cave
and build a trail to be able to share it with others without hurting
the cave. Public television made a 15 minute TV show of some of our
efforts to clean, restore, and rebuild the Oregon Caves and I think
that had an effect on other cavers and their restoration projects.
So as the trail-building
in the Oregon Caves progressed, these issues were always in my mind,
and guided many of the daily decisions that had to be made in
construction there. The first issue was the vast amount of
knowledge a cave can contain that is too often missed or ignored
because of the overwhelming experience of being in a strange
environment with such unnatural beautiful decorations. Also “seeing”
a cave by the light of a lamp encourages tunnel vision. After over
100 years of tourism and caving by thousands of people, an ancient
bear track was found in the Oregon Caves, as an example plus the
revelation that some of the bones were 10,000 years old. Another
example of information from the "cave library" is the climate record
recorded in the precipitates. This is a recent important field of
research. The other issue was how to discover, explore, and share a
cave without significant impact while learning that cave’s
particular lessons. And these issues were uppermost in my mind when
we received the challenge.
The challenge was a $1,000
reward for anybody who could find the “Lechuguilla of the Oregon
Caves,” referring to a magnificent cave found near Carlsbad
Caverns. The challenge was put out by Craig Ackerman, then
superintendent of the Oregon Caves. Well, myself and my friend, Don
Young, couldn’t help but take up the challenge. We both have loved
to dig and explore from our youths. We went to the resource
department at the Caves, did some research, geological and
historical, and put together a list of possible places to look. We
found and searched around every marble outcrop and hole in the ground
we could find. The result was the discovery and mapping of the first
700’ of the Cave Next Door. We still have videos of the first room
of the cave. A nice shot of John Roth’s (Oregon Caves resource manager) boots
disappearing into the trachea, the narrow passage to get into the
heart of the cave. These were exciting days for me and I regularly
informed both the Park Service and the Forest Service of my progress
and results. Some of John Roth’s ideas were incorporated into the
management plan. It was obvious that this was a significant cave.
For some reason though, it didn’t fit the criterion of the
challenge so we never got the reward, but subsequent work has shown
the cave to be much larger than the 700’ of mapped passage.
Now it is important to
notice here that from the time we first punched a hole in a layer of
sand near the ceiling (August 15, 1999), the CND has had airflow. In
fact the last trip into the cave, January 2000, was a very cold night
and the air was rising through the cave quite well. It was telling us how much more cave there was and most definitely telling us there was
another opening. Not just air seeping through micro-fissures and
soil.
That same trip brought us to the sump at the end of the mapped
passage. On a silt bar of the sump were mouse and rat tracks that
had not gotten there the way we came, but from another entrance. That
rat’s skeleton was lying in the stream a short distance away. The
CND is very open at some other end or ends.
Anyway, the one end we
came in, where the stream came out, by April had collapsed with large
alluvial boulders filling the tunnel we had dug. Subsequent
investigations showed that had not only alluvium collapsed but what
had been the ceiling of the first room called the Boulder Room, was
now the floor. The marble is like Swiss cheese with intense
dissolution along joint fracture lines.
After a couple of years of
geological and hydrological work, I located a sinkhole (part of a
cave, according to the Federal Cave Protection Act of 1988) connected to the
original dig. I started digging. About once a year, I would give a
letter or a disc to the local FS office and they would usually just
give me a “What do you expect us to do about it?” look. We would
go back to digging. Turnover of personnel at the office was pretty
high; sometimes we found someone who was interested. Once we had
some meetings with the cave specialists and natural resource types,
and we visited the site. They told me that they recognized my right
to be doing what I was doing. We kept digging. Eventually we found
marble, then airflow. Then we found a whole cave room, but the
passage leading down was still blocked with rubble.
Over the years there were
many people who helped with the digging. Much of it was done with a
jin-pole. There were as many as 6 people involved in the raising of
the 1/3 cubic foot of dirt in a white plastic bucket. Often there
was only a digger and a lifter, and even more often the digger and
lifter were one in the same person--that is, me, David. You had to
climb up to the top to fish for buckets sitting 30’ below with a
hook on the end of a rope you were holding down attached to a pole
with a counter-weight of rock to help you lift the bucket when you
caught it. I calculate there are over 10,000 hours of voluntary
community service put into this project by over 50 individuals in one
way or another.
Much of the help came from
seasonal employees at the Oregon Caves. I have enjoyed working with
those kids over the years, and some still keep in touch. I remember
Greg. He had a bad back, but loved to dig, that didn’t hurt. He
would come out of the hole so happy and dirty. He was a timber
cruiser by trade and I took him for his last walk on some specials
trails I knew of in the forest around the site. He died soon after.
Sure hated to lose such a dedicated helper. All these folks believed in
the project.
What is the project? The
project is a process designed to discover, explore, and digitally map
a cave with zero to minimal impact. Do this with at least some kind
of WWW Internet connection to share the opening of the cave with the
whole world in real time. And at the end, be able to roll back up
trails and leave the cave alone. In effect, we want to show how to
satisfy the requirements of the Cave Protection Act. Yes, we have
set very strict standards for ourselves, for the sake of the cave;
otherwise it would have been entered and explored years ago. These
standards apply especially to any engineering in the construction of
the shaft or the trail. Much extra time and expense has been put in
to make sure everything would be safe and sound and would last at
least 50 years. I know of no other plan for entering and exploring a
cave (something that’s usually done the night before as you hastily
gather ropes and gear), other than some NASA experiments, that adhere
to such strict regimen. The project is not about caving, it is about
the cave. It is about applying 21st century technology to one of mankind’s oldest, recreational, or
perhaps, religious pursuits.
So now we are in the
process of filling in the sink with its own rubble and sealing up the
top. We seem to be right at the neck of the sink because air flow is
increasing and all the rocks are getting looser with more air voids
all the time. After 10 years—what excitement and hope. Also, once
again the powers that be, the FS in this case, are taking notice of
our efforts and visited the site. Now I have always known that this
project cannot ultimately succeed without FS approval. Unless of
course, I’d have chosen to just forget safety and engineering and
other people and busted that cave for myself. But I didn’t do
that. I kept trying to get some official help. I think they were
hoping it would collapse on me and I wouldn’t be pestering them
anymore. It didn’t and I am. Almost 2 years ago, we went to them
and applied for a special use permit. Phone calls were never
returned. Well let me tell you, I think it is much easier to build a
stable trail right down the throat of an active sinkhole than it is
to find a way through the sinkhole of regulatory agencies. I have
been informed that right now they are planning to put in a grate at
the top and then return and fill the shaft with expandable foam. How
green of them! I’m thinking of taking my meager retirement
somewhere else where they only laugh at an old man who likes to dig
for nothing, and not make a criminal out of him. I feel like the
bottom is about ready out of this hole, and I need to chain myself to
the cave so I don’t fall in with it.